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Jellied eels

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A plate of jellied eels

Jellied eels is a traditional English dish that originated in the 18th century, primarily in London's East End. The dish consists of chopped eels boiled in a spiced stock that is allowed to cool and set, forming a jelly. It can be eaten hot or cold.

Contents

[edit] History

Manze's pie and mash shop in Peckham

The eel was a cheap, nutritious and readily available food source for the people of London; European eels were once so common in the Thames that nets were set as far upriver as London itself, and eels became a staple for London's poor.

The first "Eel Pie & Mash Houses" opened in London in the 18th century, and the oldest surviving shop - M Manze - has been open since 1891.[1]

Although jellied eels are nowhere near as popular today as they were - at the end of the Second World War there were as many as a hundred Eel Pie & Mash Houses in London[2] - they can still be found in the Eel Pie & Mash Houses that remain, and in some supermarkets. The water quality of the Thames has improved since the 1960s and is now conducive to recolonisation by eels[3] - indeed, the Environment Agency supports a Thames fishery, allowing nets as far upriver as Tower Bridge[4] - but lessened demand for cheap nutrition, competition from other foods and changing tastes mean that they have been marginalised.

[edit] Preparation

A bowl of eels set in jelly

The dish is traditionally prepared using the freshwater eels native to Britain. Typically, the eels are chopped into rounds and boiled in a fish stock with nutmeg, lemon juice and a mirepoix before being allowed to cool. The eel is a naturally gelatinous fish so the cooking process releases fats into the liquid which solidify on cooling to form a jelly, though gelatin may be added in order to aid this process.

Jellied eels are often sold with pie and mash - another traditional East End food - and eaten with chilli vinegar.

[edit] Regional variations

Italy has a similar dish known simply as anguilla (simply "eel"), which is eaten with balsamic rather than chilli vinegar; in France the dish is known as aspic d'anguille.

[edit] Notes

[edit] External links

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